You'll note, too, that the fixed part of the glides set back roughly 2mm from the front of the cabinet when you have the first line of holes at 37mm from the front edge of the cabinet. You'll note that most gaps between hole lines are 128mm EXCEPT between the second and third hole lines where it drops to 96mm. One example would be the Accuride glides that I use. Quote from: Sparktrician on March 03, 2020, 08:21 AM Remember to set the holes closest to the front at 37mm from the front edge of the cabinet sides, then space the second, third, etc., holes at predetermined gaps from the first hole as you progress toward the back of the cabinet, and all reference on the first hole at 37mm from the front. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk Once you get used to the setup of the LR32 its fast, easy, and near perfect. That way it doesnt matter if youre piece fits perfectly between the stops. I can make my boxes whatever size i want, just have to be sure to reference the LR32 end stops off the same end of a cabinet component when line boring front and back rows of holes. Set door on a spacer, screw on the plates, done. Id much rather bore all my doors the same, and use a simple jig to mount them, or use face frame style hinge plates and no jig at all. And the problem compounds when you have some doors hanging flush to the bottom of a cabinet, but others held up slightly, or sharing a horizontal partition, etc. Your boxes have to be a certain height and depth for it to work properly. But using it to mount doors and drawers is more trouble than its worth imo. The holes are clean and perfectly aligned. I initially went down the rabbit hole of trying to incorporate everything into the 32mm system (shelves, drawer glides, and hinge plates). Ive been using the LR32 with OF1010 for a couple years now. The rear row of holes is not as critical, but should be bored so that one of the rear holes in your slides will line up. Other manufacturer's hardware works with the same setback (Grass, Salice, etc.) Once you've chosen a base plate position, you simply drill the hinge cup in the door to match. The hinge base plates fit exactly into a pair of holes spaced 32mm and require the same 37mm set back. With holes bored at a 37mm set back, these slides can be placed at exactly the 3mm set back per the installation specs. The holes in the Tandem slides are machined to accept 5mm euro screws. I normally use Blum Tandem undermount drawer slides. This is a standard setback for euro hardware. I bore my front holes with a "set back" of 37 mm from the front edge of the carcass. Set includes: Guide plate, Centering mandrel, two (2) edge stops, two (2) linear stops, two (2) clamps, Operating wrench, 35mm carbide-tipped European hinge boring bit, two (2) carbide-tipped 5mm shelf pin bits (one for through holes and one for stopped pin holes).The beauty of the 32mm system is that once you've done your line boring, those holes can be used for shelf pins, drawer slides AND hinge base plates. Invaluable for placing cup hinges (35mm) or setting shelf pin holes (based on 32mm spacing) in casework, this portable line boring system allows you do in the field what has traditionally been a shop-only job, possible only with large stationary equipment.įor use with the Festool OF 1010 and OF 1400 routers and guide rail system, the LR 32 System is supported by 42", 55" and a 95" rails (sold separately) to cover any size job. With the LR 32 Hole Drilling System from Festool, you can precisely and efficiently build cabinets using the European frameless 32mm system.
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